The New Party Food Aesthetic Is Scarcity
When did sparsely arranged eggs become so cool?

When did sparsely arranged eggs become so cool?
Plus: Big Potato is in trouble, and can a corkscrew kill? (Just curious.)
Plus: a simple green pasta sauce, stuff piled on yogurt, and a supreme winter salad.
A longtime restaurant critic reflects on what we’ve gained and lost in 30 years of dining.
Plus: Blender pancakes, better choc chips, a Malört redemption cocktail, and an ode to tavern pie.