How To Make Even The Worst Tomatoes Taste Good
Plus: An ode to pomelo, and really great OJ.

I just spent two weeks in Spain eating a lot of tortilla, gambas al pil pil, and pale spring tomatoes. Even in the middle of April, I couldn’t resist ordering tomatoes aliñados (wedges doused in olive oil and grated garlic) alongside fried seafood, or eating a daily piece of tomato toast at breakfast.
Every self-respecting Spanish hotel breakfast has a sort of DIY pan con tomate station. This usually involves sliced bread, a toaster, extra virgin olive oil (in many situations several different options), individual packets of fine sea salt, and a perpetually refilled bowl of freshly grated tomatoes.